Monthly Archives: July 2013

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Schmuck 2013

The Jewellery & Object team travelled to Munich this year to see the world’s most important contemporary jewellery event: SCHMUCK

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Between the 6th and 12th of March, jewellery lovers, students, museum curators and collectors from around the world descended on Munich to see SCHMUCK. This exhibition, a part of the Handwerk & Design show at the Internationale Handwerksmesse, is regarded as the premier event in its field. Over 250 exhibits by 58 jewellers from 18 different countries were on display, fuelling its longstanding reputation as a cradle for new styles and directions. Its importance is also reflected in the ever-growing number of satellite events, which this year amounted to 60 previewing across the city, turning Munich into a true carnival of contemporary art jewellery.

“For me Munich allowed me to see such a big variety of jewellery and also meet the designers which was brilliant. I also looked at why I did and didn’t like a piece of jewellery. This has made me think about what I want to do when I finish the course.” (Stephanie Egan, Yr 1)

The range of work was as extraordinary as were the different materials used. A particularly vibrant show, Conspiración, was held at the Cervantes Institute, featuring work by the Escola Massana from Barcelona and EASD from València. Not only was the jewellery inspirational but also the display was equally ingenious. Brooches placed onto life-size black and white portrait photographs of every day people, came alive making sense of their wearability: “I didn’t know whether to laugh or cry, be disillusioned or inspired. It made me realise we weren’t doing enough. Nowhere near enough.” (Caroline Draper, Yr 2)

A wall installation by Nanna Melland of hundreds of aluminium planes invited the public to buy one and place the money in a box. “The trust behind it was incredible. The satellite events made the trip really interesting. We visited 20 galleries besides Schmuck itself.” (Kat Downs, Yr 3)

Students were captivated by the imagination of Akiko Kurihara whose necklace in the shape of the letter ‘g’ weighed precisely 1 gram. Also by her wall nails with roots: “I liked the thought behind it. She found a nail on a wall, tried to pull it out but couldn’t and imagined it to have roots.” (Kat Downs, Yr 3)

Schmuck and its surrounding events are a visual challenge for most, but for first time visitors it is a mind-blowing experience. From the great Otto Künzli retrospective at the Pinakothek der Moderne und Schaustelle, to Plateaus, the more modest exhibition in an attic by postgraduates from Idar-Oberstein, students felt welcomed and found the inclusive attitude and energy motivating and inspiring.  “It’s also about how the work is finished and how it isn’t.” (Caroline Draper, Yr 2)

After the Internationale Handwerksmesse, SCHMUCK will be setting off on tour. In 2013, it will be stopping off in the town of Legnica in Poland, where visitors can admire the pieces as part of the International Jewellery Competition in May 2013.

“Schmuck is definitely something I am thinking about going to again in years to come.” (Stephanie Egan, Yr 1)

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Adam Paxon Pays Us a Visit.

The Jewellery & Object team were privileged to receive Jerwood prize winner Adam Paxon as guest lecturer this term. Adam’s distinctive jewellery is usually only found in prestigious galleries in the UK, across the world or in private collections, but on this occasion students were invited to handle and try on his pieces as he gave a lively, informal talk about his practice.
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Adam’s expertise in handling plastics often fools the eye into believing that his jewellery might be made of glass. Strange, jellyfish-like creatures with moving parts danced across the tabletops as students cautiously inspected their vivid colours and ingenious construction. Important pieces, recognisable from seminal contemporary jewellery publications and extravagant private collections were laid out for all to see. Students concentrated on understanding the methods used to achieve such extraordinary results and questioned him on his inspiration. Living deep in the Lake District, Adam explained how working at the bench all day, every day, is a challenge most jewellers are faced with, something he addresses by going for walks to stimulate the creative process. He advised students to be constantly observant of the shapes and colours around them and to remain curious about how things are made.

Students were also invited to talk about their own work with Adam in a group seminar where he raised thoughtful questions about each project in turn and encouraged others to share their opinion. “It’s very important’ he said “ that you are able to talk openly about your work.”

It is always an honour to welcome guest jewellers onto the programme and the team appreciate how time consuming this is for self-employed practitioners. Adam’s visit leaves another indelible mark in the record of visitors and the team thank him for generously sharing his knowledge with us.

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2013 Degree Show a Success!

Our degree show for 2013, Primitus: V, proved to be a huge success with everyone who visited saying how beautiful the work was. As well as being able to showcase their creations, our soon to be graduates were also given the opportunity to sell their work as they begin to take their first steps into the professional world.

For anyone who didn’t get the chance to see the show in person, don’t worry! The show brochure is still available. Click on the play button below to get started.